Wednesday, January 26, 2011
We were little more than a dozen and accompanying us were a couple of officers and a few Army and Air Force men. There were two long benches along the both walls of the aircraft. These benches had no cushion and no backrest. Along both benches were two overhead cables hooked from front end to back end of the aircr
aft. One had to sit with straight back, pull the belts from behind around your waist a
nd hold on to the overhead cables. While taking off and landing, the AN 32 shakes almost violently and if you are not holding on to the overhead cables with all your strength, your upper body or torso could be thrown around in all directions.
The aircraft did not seem to be air conditioned nor sound proofed. For toilet, there was a 7-feet high box fitted at the front end just outside the cockpit with a tank inside
This is how we would make the first two hours of our three-and-half hour journey to the Siachin Glacier!
Message came late previous afternoon. I was on the list for Army’s trip to Siachin next morning. As a journalist, I was being invited along with a dozen others to visit Siachin, its command headquarter
s and some forward posts for a first person experience on how it was at the world’s highest battle field. How the officers and men of Army and Air Force were doing their job – selflessly. In the most inhospitable weather and terrain where some of the posts are at a height of up to 22,000 feet, these men are defending the frontie
rs with immense sacrifices in their personal and family lives.
It was going to be a dawn to dusk trip from
With its both propellers on either side in full blast, the Russian built twin-engine turboprop aircraft roared into the dark
Soon we left the northern plains behind and were approaching the Karakoram ranges. Stretched far and wide I could see from the window hundreds of kilometers of ice peaked mountains underneath us with the
average height of these peaks at 5 miles. The
With the early morning sun coming out at a far distance, the skyline was turning bright from golden. Everyone had their heads turned backwards with their faces into the windows. Fear aside, none wanted to miss the rare sight outside either. Watching the sun rise over the great Karakoram was indeed a rare site.
To relax the tensed atmosphere, an officer suggested why not we have some biscuits, Cadbury chocolates and cold drinks. Soon we would be landing at the Thoise Air Base at over 10,000 feet, the gateway to Siachin. We arrived at Thoise amid bright sunlight but very chilly winds. Walking down the ramp of the aircraft, I had the first jaw dropping look of the mighty ranges – the Saltoro Ridge.
Despite still being at a distant, the ranges looked like ramparts of a fort that could never be captured by the enemy. For years now, the Indian Army has held all the dominating heights of these ranges.
At the officers’ lounge in the terminal area, hot breakfast was served with tea. It was so chilly that most of us were gulping the steaming tea and still couldn’t feel it. A little later the commander of the Siachin brigade arrived in a helicopter from the base headquarters. We had another round of tea with him while he briefed us on the history of the glacier, its terrain and the work he was doing.
He also spoke to us in detail about how the Army supports the local civilian population. There are very small settlements in the area and villager go high up the mountains with their goats and sheep. Their most important needs from the Army are kerosene and medical support. Many a times choppers rescue them from higher ridges when they fall ill. We were witness to one such mission which I will write about in Part II.
Helicopters are the lifeline in the entire Siachin area – be it supplies, fuel, medical rescue or surveillance. Doing this round the year is the 114 Helicopter Unit of the Air Force – more famously known as the Siachin Pioneers. Recently it was reported that a pilot landed his chopper on a peak at 28,000 feet!
It was time for the most crucial second part of our journey – a one-and-half hour flight by the MI17 helicopter to the base camp. This flight would take us to unprecedented altitudes and amazing sights...
Sunday, December 26, 2010
Thursday, April 8, 2010
With my exams over and the school shut, I hit the road with my Dad, Mom and Dadi. The trip was long - Noida to Corbett, Mukteshwar, Nanital and back to Delhi. We left home at 4.30 am for Ramnagar in our hardworking Maruti Swift. Our rooms at Camp Dhikala in Corbett were already booked. We had to meet up with Akram and his Gypsy at Ramnagar. We crossed Moradabad Bypass at 7.30 am but the village traffic on Bazpur-Ramnagar road slowed us down - finally reaching Ramnagar some time after 9.30 am. It took us another 30 minutes to shift our bags to the Gypsy and park our Swift at Jungle Lore, a picturesque camp on the banks of the Kosi river, for two days.
Dhikala is the inner most camp in the CTR. On our way we stopped at the Crocodile Point. It is a edge of a hill top from where you can look straight down into crystal clear blue waters of Ramganga River. At this point the water, some 100 feet below, is collected into a pond like corner and we could see four huge crocodiles taking an afternoon nap. On the way we also saw a number of deers, cheetals, sambars, numerous kinds of birds, termite hills up to 10 feet and a group of elephants.